carolla's picture

carolla

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Destination Newfoundland!

What else to do in the depths of Canadian winter but to plan one's next vacation!  So this time I'm going to head off to Newfoundland - probably for two to three weeks and likely in June so we can see some icebergs.  

 

So my intrepid wondercafe travel advisors ... all suggestions welcome!  I know some of you have great familiarity with The Rock.  Places to see for sure; places to miss; places to stay (or not stay!); things to do; great hikes;  things aside from the usual touristy agenda ... 

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somegalfromcan's picture

somegalfromcan

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I've never been to Newfoundland, but it is a place that I really want to go to sometime! A former minister of mine went there last summer, and when she returned, she raved about this place: http://hungryheartcafe.ca/. It is definitely on my list of places to eat at when I finally make it to St. John's. I love the idea that the people who work there not only get a paying job, but also a chance to really turn their lives around. As I understand it, this restaurant is a United Church outreach ministry. Oh - and apparently the food is really good too!

Pilgrims Progress's picture

Pilgrims Progress

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You'll love it, Carolla!

 

I think June is the "right" month for icebergs - LB and I were there in July , and they'd disappeared.

We toured the southern part (around St. Johns) and I'd recommend you go whale watching, visit Quidi Vidi (not sure how to spell it now!). It's scenic and you can take some great photos and I happen to know from personal experience that  the brewery there has the best boutique beer I've ever tasted - called "Honey Brown". (And, like any self-respecting Aussie, over the years I've sampled plenty!)

 

In St Johns, make sure you visit "The Rooms" - it's a museum, art gallery, etc and has a wonderful tea-room with great views of the harbour....

 

LB drove me onto a ferry that took us to Bell Island - would highly recommend you do likewise.....

 

Go to Cape Spear - the most easterly point of North America - and have a picnic there - which you can purchase for a reasonable price......

 

In short, we only had a week, and it wasn't long enough to even see the south area.

I'd suggest you contact gecko - she's familiar with all of NL....

 

Depending on family commitments, I'd like to visit northern NL and Labrador this year....

LB intends to take her family this year to show them all the wonderful experiences to be had - whilst I'm thinking of taking a tour.

(We're still friends!) smiley

 

Do it whilst you can is my motto........

carolla's picture

carolla

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That cafe looks great somegal - I will definitely check it out. 

 

Thanks Pilgrims - we will definitely visit all the spots you suggest - a friend's daughter recently started studying at Memorial Uni & they were just there in Sept - she also mentionned all the highlights you made note of - especially Bell Island.    Where did you stay while in St. John's?   And you're thinking of returning again! 

carolla's picture

carolla

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LOL - I just learned there is a Newfoundland, NEW JERSEY!!  I posted a question on a Newfoundland tripadvisor forum - and was advised I was in the wrong country.  Who knew??  The devil is in the details, as the saying goes devil

waterfall's picture

waterfall

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My daughter went to Newfoundland last summer. She saw whales and was very impressed with a Natiional Park called "Grosmorne"  Said you could see forever standing on top of the cliffs.

 

http://www.grosmorne.com/

Pilgrims Progress's picture

Pilgrims Progress

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We stayed at the Delta - a great hotel within walking distance of the "street without cars".  The food was both cheap and good.....

I like to eat early -and, LB was happy to accommodate my wishes. We often sat outside and ate watching the world go by.

 

I paid almost twice as much as I did in Toronto for the hotel - but LB had frequent flyer points so I decided to go upmarket for a week..... 

 

Grosmorne is further north -and it's on my (hopefully) bucket list for this year.....

BTW, there is a Toronto north of Sydney......

gecko46's picture

gecko46

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Hi Corolla:

The first thing to do is order the 2014 Newfoundland and Labrador Travel Guide and road map.  This is the offical tourism website which contains great information.

http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/

 

I will suggest some places to visit and tours, maybe later today when I have some time.  Newfoundland is a wonderful place to visit.  You will love it.

 

Are you flying or driving your own car?

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revjohn

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Hi carolla,

 

carolla wrote:

probably for two to three weeks and likely in June so we can see some icebergs.  

 

Two weeks is not enough to do the province of Newfoundland and Labrador justice.  

 

The province is also pretty sparsely populated which means there can be a lot of travel time between sights.

 

If you are concentrating primarily on the St. John's area there is The Rooms which is the provincial museum and art gallery.

http://www.therooms.ca/exhibition_events.asp

 

Signal Hill which includes the Cabot tower and the Queen's battery barracks.

http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/nl/signalhill/activ/activ1.aspx

 

The railway coastal museum.

http://www.railwaycoastalmuseum.ca/

 

The Johnson Geo Centre

http://www.geocentre.ca/

 

Cape Spear is not far from St. John's and it represents the most easterly point of North America.

 

Witless Bay, also not far from St. John's is home to the largest Puffin Colony in North America (roughly 500, 000 of them). 

 

The best place in the Province to see icebergs is anywhere on Iceberg alley and the best time is April to Mid June.

 

I've shared this link before but there is no harm in doing so again:

http://www.icebergfinder.com/

 

Check the map prior to your arrival in the province to calculate your chances of seeing an iceberg.  Few make it to the St. John's area as late as June.

 

If you hit the West Coast there is Gros Morne Park and some hours drive north of that  St. Anthony and the Grenfell Museum as well as L'anse-aux-meadows and the Viking attractions.

 

Grace and peace to you.

John

crazyheart's picture

crazyheart

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PP where did you have the picnic? That was neat.

gecko46's picture

gecko46

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Can't remember if this is the one PP enjoyed, but it is one of the possibilities in NL.  Ferryland is an archeological site, has a nice gift shop, and the more ambitious can walk the trail to the lighthouse and order a picnic lunch.  The scenery is awesome.

http://www.lighthousepicnics.ca/

gecko46's picture

gecko46

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Hi Corolla:

Will make some travel suggestions for you and will do it in parts, otherwise this would be a very long post.

Questions first - driving or flying?  If you plan to see icebergs in June and are flying, then you would fly into Deer Lake on the west side.  Book a rental car early on for best rates and availability.  I rent through Budget or Avis and get good discounts with my CARP membership.  You need to consider where your journey will end - in Deer Lake or St. John's.  Some car rental companies charge a drop off fee, so need to weigh that against driving back from St. John's to Deer Lake, for example, if St. John's area is your final destination.  It is a good days drive across the province and doable.

 

So, on to Part I.

Arrive Deer Lake.  Depending on arrival time, you may choose to stop over in Gros Morne or drive to St. Anthony - "Iceberg Capital".  It is a 5 - 6 hour drive from Deer Lake to St. Anthony.

Rocky Harbour is a lovely little village in the Park with numerous B&Bs, cabins and 2 motels.  I tend to stay at Fisherman's Landing Inn.  It is quiet, just off the highway and the folks are nice.

Be careful driving in the Park at any time since there are numerous park moose nd they own the roads.  Don't drive at night.

Your journey north is a lovely coastal drive with the Gulf of St. Lawrence on your left and through numerous small communities.  A must stop either on the journey north or on the return is the Arches Provincial Park.  A natural rock arch formed by ocean waves, and very picturesque. 

Should you decide to stop off along the way, there is a lovely B&B at Flower's Cove, just north of St. Barbe called French Island B&B.  Lovely rooms and inexpensive and the owner, Maggie, is delightful.

 

From St. Barbe (ferry departs from here to Labrador) to St. Anthony keep a good eye for moose and DON'T DRIVE AT NIGHT. 

There are several B&B's in St. Anthony, and 2 motels, both nice.  Last summer I stayed in a friend's house.  The house has 3 apartments with fully-equipped kitchens.  This worked for me since I am on a special diet and could prepare my own meals.  The rooms are spotlessly clean.  You can check it out at: http://www.snuggleinn.ca/

 

I have also stayed at the Crow's Nest B&B - http://www.crowsnestinn.ca/

It is lovely and the folks are nice.

 

Priority - ICEBERGS.  You will want to book a tour with Northland Discovery Boat Tours: http://www.discovernorthland.com/

Re: clothing - take some polar fleece and do some layering.  The boat has a heated cabin but it can be cold on the ocean at this time of year.

The owner/operator, Paul Alcock, is a good friend, and a really nice fellow.  A good idea to keep in touch with him as you plan your trip and he can give you the best information regarding iceberg sightings.  There is an email address and phone number on his website.

 

Other things to do while in St. Anthony - visit L'Anse Aux Meadows, the Viking site.

Prepare to spend several hours at the site, and take warm clothes.  Might be coolish in June.

Take a drive to some small communities, eg. Raleigh.  A fellow there does carvings from moose bone and antlers.  Continue to Cape Onion and Ship Cove.  On one of my first trips to the area a small iceberg had grounded in the harbour at Ship Cove.

The drive to Quirpon is another one....jawdropping, gorgeous scenery.  Oh, yes en route to L'Anse Aux Meadows, stop in the Dark Tickle to sample local jams and jellies.

Eating out - The Lighthouse Cafe in St. Anthony, good but a tad expensive.  There is now a Jungle Jim's in town at the Hotel North.

The Norseman Restaurant at L'Anse Aux Meadows.

 

Hiking - numerous trails from Fishing Point Lighthouse in St. Anthony.  Some follow the rocky coast, and you will see a path that leads from a little cemetery and climbs the cliffs for spectacular views.  Fishing Point is a great place to do some land-based iceberg and whale watching.

The Grenfell House and Grenfell Cottage are other places to visit.

And.....there is a Tim Horton's in St. Anthony.

Next - Part II - Gros Morne.

 

 

Pilgrims Progress's picture

Pilgrims Progress

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carolla, what gecko doesn't know about NL is not worth knowing - she was most helpful to LB and me.....

graeme's picture

graeme

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nice people in Newfoundland. So don't concentrate on sights and ignore the people.

Have some codfish tongue. Great stuff.

Before you go, read some short stories and songs by Art Scammell. (He wrote The Squid-jiggin' ground - which would probably have become the national anthem had Newfoundland become a Dominion. His short stories are engaging accounts of  his life as a child - and some were written when he was very young.)

I exchanged notes with him about 20 years ago.  (He had been my geography teacher in grade 8.) He was then living in St. John's, but in failing health.

 

mrs.anteater's picture

mrs.anteater

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Take LOTS of bug repellant.Be prepared for rain.
Take time to hike.

Pinga's picture

Pinga

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Carolla, 

 

We flew into St. John's, rented car, spent time there, then drove across and up to St. Anthony's about 10 years ago.  Were I to do it again, I would consider that two vacations:  1 to do the west coast and 1 to do the east coast, or arrange flights.  

Why? It takes a while to drive across  and is way too long unless retired to do the more interesting coast routes.  You can't really drive fast as you are slowing down for small towns, and you can't drive long days due to moose on the highway.

 

Of the two, I would pick the west coast to visit, and follow the recommendations of Gecko.

 

We camped at gros morne and could have stayed there a lot longer, but, we are hikers, campers and there was just so much interesting geography and cultural items.

carolla's picture

carolla

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Ah friends - I do so appreciate having you in my life!  So much useful information offered by those whose opinions and experiences I trust & value - thank you. 

 

The more I'm reading & learning (here and elsewhere), the more I'm tending toward doing the split that some are suggesting and not try to squeeze in too much.  We did that when we went to Italy & it was very wise - and much more enjoyable for us!  More time to settle in, to wander communities, not to feel rushed to move on, but to linger and chat & enjoy all the local flavours & experiences. 

 

Tonight I'm contemplating - flying in & out of Deer Lake, renting a vehicle there; some time in Gros Morne (we also like to hike); I've learned of a sightseeing flight from Cow Head (on the north end of GM) up the peninsula & over iceberg alley; then continue on to St. Anthony for a few days; back down and around to Twillingate area; boat trip from either St. Anthony or Twillingate to see the bergs; possibly then to Bonavista and returning to Deer Lake.  So that would mean leaving St. John's and the Avalon Peninsula for another trip - which could easily fill another amazing two weeks or more! 

 

I do like to read ahead graeme - so thanks for that author suggestion. 

 

Love the iceberg finder site RevJohn - it will certainly be helpful.  Have you ever visited the Tickle Inn at Onion Cove - up near St. Anthony?  

 

And yes - bugs & rain, and cold weather on the water - we will be prepared!  

 

Gecko - THANKS! Can't wait for your chapter on Gros Morne!   I have found what look to be some good little cottages or suites in various places - like you, diet can be a bit challenging for me so access to kitchen helps - also keeps some expenses in check!  Although I love B&B's for the experience of interacting with hosts! 

 

Any thoughts about taking time to go out to Fogo Island?  Is it more of the same landscape?  Our first nanny was from a Fogo Island family - so I heard a bit about it then.  

 

Last night we watched an episode of "Land & Sea" - CBC documentary series on the people and places of Newfoundland - so wonderful to hear the language spoken and see the rugged beauty.  This episode was titled "Louise Deckker" - and featured a woman from the Gros Morne area - so lots of beautiful landscape & seascape too!. 

 

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seeler

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We were to Newfoundland for three weeks.  Could have stayed longer - especially in the northern part before going down to the Avalon peninsula. 

 

Next trip - fly over, rent a car.  The ferry meant long waits before boarding and long damp cold crossings (and we were late July/early August). 

 

Highlights

- long drive down to Burgus where Farley Mowat once lived (book - A Whale for the Killing).   It gives you some idea of the barren grounds, distances, and isolation of Newfoundland.  Skip this if you are short on time, but I'm glad we didit once.

- GrosMorne Park - rugged highlands, deep fiords, ocean (Gulf of St. Lawrence).  For geologists, some of the oldest rock in the world.  Great hiking.

- The northern tip - for historians, the Norse settlement, Doc Grenfield's museum.  Again long distances, isolation, and interestingly, little fenced vegetable gardens along the highway away from the villages.  Lots of moose - watch out.

- Twillingate area - dinner theatre in an old barn (book ahead).  Lots of little islands, dotted with fishing villages, each with its own history and dialect.  Lighthouses, whalewatching, icebergs (we were a late for these).

- BonVista - historic, beautiful - movies and tv series have been filmed in this area.  We toured the sight of 'Random Passage'.  Sea birds, interesting rock formations, tides and waves (open ocean all the way to Europe).

Interesting people, friendly.  We stayed at B&Bs.  Each one different, each clean, hospitable, and very reasonably priced. 

 

We should have spent more time in these places (and visited Gander), before going to te Avalon peninsula and St. John's.  One week was enough time there - and others have outlined the 'must see' and 'must do' for St. John's, Cape Spear, etc.

 

Great food - try as many fish dishes as you can.  Fresh cod, we watch a family cleaning andfilleting their catch by the ocean.  You can't get any fresher than that.  Berries, jams that are hardto find elsewhere.  Even a special type of bread dough that you slice raw and fry when you need it.  And hard bread that has to be soaked before eating.

 Great memories!

 

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revjohn

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Hi Carolla,

 

carolla wrote:

Love the iceberg finder site RevJohn - it will certainly be helpful.  Have you ever visited the Tickle Inn at Onion Cove - up near St. Anthony?  

 

I have not.  I have been to the cemetery in Onion Cove.  It was very picturesque in January.  Most of the cemeteries are though the weather during funerals tends to discourage sitting around long and just soaking in the view.  Odd thing that. 

 

Now to get to Onion Cove you need to drive through Raleigh, NL which is home to our summer place.  We might not be in but we could have it ready for you.  We could make room for you if we were there also.  It would make a cheap place to hang out for a day or two while you looked around.  As I mostly putter about and read while out there I could play tour guide.  I'm pretty good at spotting Moose (to be fair in that neck of the woods it is only impressive not to be good at spotting them) and can show you around.

 

Mull things over and let me know if we can help you with anything.

 

Grace and peace to you.

John

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gecko46

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Corolla, you mentioned the Tickle Inn at Cape Onion.  My seatmates on the flight from TO to Deer Lake last summer had booked some nights at the Tickle Inn.  I met up with them a few days later in St. Anthony and they really enjoyed their stay.

http://www.tickleinn.net/

 

Fogo Island is definately worth a visit - will include comments when we get to chapter on Twillingate area.

 

You didn't mention Labrador, and at this time, I would say not worth it.  I returned last summer after a 3 year absence and the highway had further deteriorated.  Because of the weather and frost, the roads heave, then huge potholes are created.  Road crews can't repair these fast enough.  I had to be really careful so as not to drop the front wheel of my rental car in one of these potholes, with a broken axel as a result.  The ferry crossing is inexpensive, about $18.00 per crossing, so if you decide to go, the lighthouse at Point Amour is worth a look and a climb.  The second tallest lighthouse in Atlantic Canada.  It is a short drive from the ferry dock.

 

Glad you are thinking about exploring the west side only with your time of 2-3 weeks.  Can't do justice to the Island if you have to hurry, and can easily spend another 2 weeks on the eastern side another time.

 

OK - on to Part II - Gros Morne.  You should plan to spend several days in the Park as there is so much to see and do.

http://www.grosmorne.com/

When driving west from Deer Lake and approaching Rocky Harbour, you will see a sign for the Visitor's Centre.  A good idea to stop in here on your way north and pick up info on events, hiking trails, etc., then if you have a rainy day, something to do.

Once in the park you will see parking areas and signs for various hikes, some shorter, some longer.  Some to see waterfalls, some just a nice hike.

The hike to the top of Gros Morne Mountain is about 8 hours round trip and very demanding.  Check with park officials before embarking on this one as weather can be a factor.

 

You mentioned Cow Head just north of the Park.  Lovely little coastal community with nice beaches in contrast to the mountainous terrain of the park.  If you enjoy live theatre, then check the schedule of events at Cow Head.

http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/planyourtrip/Detail/11199948

http://www.cowheadlobsterfestival.ca/

 

Things to do around Rocky Harbour - visit the Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse.

http://www.rockyharbour.ca/historic_sites.php

Check out activity at the docks.  You may be able to engage in conversation with local fishermen.

 

Some "MUST-DO'S" in Gros Morne.

Western Brook Pond Boat Tour.   Western Brook Pond is an inland fjord.  The boat tour is a highlight and absolutely worthwhile.  Necessitates a 45 minute walk across the plains, about 3 kms. to get to the boat.  Waterfalls cascade down the canyon walls, dropping 1,000 - 2,000 feet.  Purchase your tickets at the Ocean View Hotel in Rocky Harbour.  The trip is very weather dependent, and folks at BonTours will advise as to best time/days for the trip.   Take you cameras and packable rain gear.

http://www.bontours.ca/tour/western-brook-pond-boat-tour/

 

Another lovely boat trip is the  Bonne Bay Boat Tour that departs from Norris Point.

http://www.bontours.ca/tour/bonne-bay-boat-tour/

I did this trip again last summer and lucked out with a day of beautiful sunshine.  We didn't see dolphins or whales, but did see 2 pairs of bald eagles.  The scenery is beautiful with views of coastal towns across the bay, Gros Morne mountain and the famous Tablelands.  Another option is to do the evening cruise complete with local entertainment.  Norris Point is a picture-postcard community with wonderful views no matter where you look.  There is an Ocean Sciences Centre in Norris Point that is interesting, if a tour is something you might enjoy.

Incidentally, a local folk group called Anchors Aweigh entertain at the Ocean View Hotel a couple of nights each week.  There is a cost, but it is well worth it to enjoy some typical Newfoundland music and fun.  The group plays such instruments as ugly sticks, spoons, etc.

http://www.bontours.ca/anchors-aweigh/

 

A visit to the famous Tablelands is another must-do.  Here you see the exposed rock that was part of the earth's mantle.  Great hiking trail.  A naturalist/guide is usually present to answer questions, explain the unique geology and maybe provide a guided tour, if you wish.  Don't think you can walk on the earth's mantle anywhere else on earth.

Before or after a stop at Tablelands, good to visit the historic community of Woody Point.

http://woodypoint.ca/

 

There is a great trail from the Discovery Centre that affords wonderful views of Bonne Bay, the Tablelands, the mountains and surrounding area.

 

The coastal village of Trout River is also worth a visit.  Nestled into a protected cove, one can explore the beach, walk the boardwalk, etc., or just enjoy lovely scenery.  One note - don't make the trip out here if it is foggy.  The road disappears and it can be very dangerous - can't see your hand in front of your face.  I lucked out last summer with a warm, sunny day and clear visibility.  Delightful.

 

Incidentally, there are several cabins, B&B's and even hotels in the Woody Point area if you choose to stay rather than driving back to Rocky harbour.

 

With the abundance of hiking trails in the Park, should keep you busy for several days.  Good to take insect repellant since the black flies may be hungry in late June/early July.

 

Eating places.  Several in Rocky Harbour.  Fisherman's Landing Restaurant, the Ocean View Hotel dining room (which I find pricey), but the food in the Pub is very reasonable (comes from the same kitchen), and the fish & chips are very good.  Several other places in town.  My favourite is the Treasure Box.  Food is homemade and inexpensive.  The ladies make the absolute best fish cakes in all of Newfoundland.  Also make a variety of homemade soups, including moose meat, if you fancy that.  Homemade partridgeberry and blueberry muffins are delicious, although they aren't gluten-free (so I cheat now and then).  The nice thing is you can browse the craft/gift store while awaiting your meal.

http://www.grosmorne.com/treasurebox/

 

I think that about covers Gros Morne.  If I think of anything else, will add later.

 

Next - On to Twillingate, with side trip to Fogo Island.

 

 

 

 

 

Pilgrims Progress's picture

Pilgrims Progress

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Like I said, gecko is your go-to-gal when in comes to NL and Labrador.... smiley

carolla's picture

carolla

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A question for gecko & RevJohn - I see that there is an "iceberg festival" in St. Anthony in June.  I'm of two minds about it - some interesting sounding activities, but I'm also thinking the town & attractions may be quite crowded.  I'm thinking about maybe visiting just before the start of the festival - any experience with this? 

 

Thank you gecko for your gros morne chapter!  Friends also went to the Anchors Aweigh performance, ate in the pub & really enjoyed the evening.  The restaurant recommendations are much appreciated too!  

 

And thank you RevJohn for your kind offer - I will be in touch when I have a better idea about our travel dates. 

revjohn's picture

revjohn

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Hi carolla,

 

carolla wrote:

I'm also thinking the town & attractions may be quite crowded.  I'm thinking about maybe visiting just before the start of the festival - any experience with this? 

 

Well there is crowded and then there is crowded.

 

St. Anthony is a town of less than 3, 000 souls so crowded means you might have to wait for Wilfrid and Ross to stop yammering from their trucks and move on.  Now that there is a Tim Horton's in town that is about the busiest town gets.  You could sit in the drive thru line for up to 5 minutes.

 

The iceberg festival is a local event and might bring in a few tourists but not so many that the town shuts down.  The last huge festival in the area was the Viking Millennium in 2000 which was an international event and attendence was so thick that every where you turned you were seeing faces that were not local.

 

Come Home Year was in 2012 and that swells the population more than does the Iceberg Festival and I wouldn't consider that crowded.  Busier than usual but not crowded.

 

Carolla wrote:

And thank you RevJohn for your kind offer - I will be in touch when I have a better idea about our travel dates. 

 

The place sits empty most of the year.  It would be nice to get more use out of it.

 

Some provisos.  No heat.  There is a wood furnace in the basement and it is in fairly good working order (so I hear).  We've never had need of it.  We have plenty of blankets on hand just in case.  Other than that we have running water (we'd have to turn it on for you obviously) and electricity so the stove works and we have laundry facilities.

 

There are other quirks to the place we can discuss later if you decide to use it.

 

Grace and peace to you.

John

gecko46's picture

gecko46

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New ad for Gros Morne, NL

See video

gecko46's picture

gecko46

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See video

carolla's picture

carolla

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Beautiful gecko!  I can see why all who visit there are so enthralled - I can't wait!

 

Thanks RevJohn for your elucidation of the concept of 'crowded'.  I also spoke with gecko's friend who lives in St. Anthony and she said pretty much the same thing.  I think, looking at schedules, we will probably be there just before the festivities anyway.  

 

Hoping to get on with booking flight tomorrow then I can get the next steps done - car, accomodations etc.  Looks like it will be 3 weeks, which is great! 

myst's picture

myst

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3 weeks in NL. How wonderful! I have never been and it is high on my list of places to visit. Some year. Happy planning, carolla.

gecko46's picture

gecko46

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Twillingate part soon - been kinda busy.  Meanwhile....

 

See video

carolla's picture

carolla

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That was a heavenly three minutes gecko!  thank you!  I've been doing so much wandering around on the web and reading lately that I'm starting to actually recognize some of the locations as places we WILL see!    On the weekend I finished confirming all my accomodations - so that's great!  Now I can just dream, and read of activities with great delight and anticipation. 

We will spend 4 nights in Twillingate, and 3 in Trinity - so good time to explore. 

gecko46's picture

gecko46

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Hi Corolla.  Have you ordered the 2014 Travellers' Guide to Newfoundland and Labrador?  I ordered mine today, plus a road map, but you can also pick up pamphlets, maps, brochures at the travel info centre at Deer Lake Airport.

 

On to Twillingate and The New World Islands.

 

Drive from Deer Lake on TransCanada not too exciting as you travel east.  Grand-Falls Windsor is the largest community.

Exit at #340 and take a side trip into the town of Lewisporte.  Rather pretty and usually lots of boats/ships in the harbour.  The route to Twillingate is remarkable for the number of small villages and outports - worth an off-road to check out some of these.

 

As you cross the causeway for the final kms into Twillingate, you will see an exhibit on your left called Prime Berth.  NOT TO BE MISSED.  It is a collection of buildings, with a sei whale skeleton on one of the wharfs.  The owner/operator is David Boyd.  He grew up in a outport town called Tizzard's Harbour.  Dave is a retired fisherman, forced on him with the demise of the cod fishery.  He is knowledgeable and entertaining - a wonderful story-teller.  Take the tour through the exhibit and you will learn about the fishery, local history and culture, music and anything else Dave decides to tell you.  Dave takes people out for boat trips, and during the food fishery, cod-fishing trips can be arranged.  Might even take you to icebergs in the area.  The craft shop is a fun place to spend some time.

http://www.primeberth.com/

 

Not sure where you are staying in Twillingate but good to book early as it is very busy in the summer.  There are several B&Bs, Inns, etc.  We stayed at Rum Runner's Roost B&B.  Several local restaurants which serve decent food, NL fare.

 

There are several boat tours in Twillingate to take you to see icebergs, and hopefully there are some in the area.

http://www.twillingate.com/toseedo/boattours/

http://www.icebergtours.ca/

http://icebergquest.com/

Close Encounters started doing zodiac and kayak trips last year.

https://www.facebook.com/OQCloseEncountersTwillingate

 

Make sure you visit the lighthouse -

http://www.townoftwillingate.ca/go/LongpointLighthouse/

The views from the cliffs are spectacular and there are good hiking trails.

If you get foggy days....too bad.  Hope not.

Visit the little town of Durrell - very picturesque.  Other than that, enjoy the area, good walking and hiking and some interesting craft shops.

 

Since you are going to be in the area for 4 nights, hopefully that allows for a visit to Fogo and Change Islands.  Take the ferry from Farewell - check schedule.  You really should stay overnight on Fogo to give yourself time for good exploration.  Nice beaches and great trails.

http://www.tw.gov.nl.ca/ferryservices/schedules/c_fogo.html

 

Fogo Island is an experience unto itself.  By now you will have heard many different Newfoundland dialects.  The Fogo Islanders speak a dialect that is unique to them and traced back through their Irish and English ancestry.

The names of the towns are fun - Seldom, Joe Batt's Arm and Tilting.  We loved Tilting with its stake fences and sheep.

We stayed at the Inn in Stag Harbour, but there are now many more B&Bs.

The new Fogo Island Inn is a rather unique piece of architecture.

http://fogoislandinn.ca/

http://www.fogoislandinn.ca/fii/

Very expensive to stay there, but I'm told it is very nice.  One of my NL friends is a tour guide and takes small groups around NL, and she and a group stayed there last summer.

 

If you have time and are interested, there is a Newfoundland Pony Sanctuary on Change Island.

From Twillingate, you would drive to Gander via #330.  Take a drive into Gander International Airport.  Can't see a great deal, but interesting.

 

I suggest people visit the Silent Witness Memorial just past Gander.  May not be something you are interested in but you can check it out.

https://www.cdli.ca/monuments/nf/gander2.htm

http://www.destinationgander.com/attractions/historical-attractions/sile...

I've visited the Memorial several times, and took friends to see it 2 years ago.  For some reason I find it deeply moving.

 

OK - that chapter is complete.  Since you plan to visit Trinity, that will be next.

Pretty place and great hiking....

 

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Yup - got my guide & map in the mail very quickly, which is great!  Both are really helpful.  

For sure Prime Berth!  My friend was there last Sept & LOVED Dave and the work he has put into the wonderful displays.  That will most certainly be a destination. 

I'll check into the Silent Witness memorial - hadn't thought about that yet. 

 

Yes - fog is a good likelihood, as perhaps is some rain - but hopefully not every day or all day - I hold onto that thought!  Our Twillingate accomodation  was up & down - a little cottge I had seen was booked for our dates sadly; then I found a few other little houses overlooking Back Bay which were possible.  Friends stayed in a suite at the Anchor Inn - so maybe there, I thought.  But then I stumbled upon a place called Oceanview Retreat - a beautiful place with gorgeous views (if there's not too much fog!). We checked their calendar & our dates jived!!  Most expensive of our stay, but we will be there on our 35th anniversary and so we said, what the heck - we're worth it!!   In Trinity we will stay at the Maidment B&B - a favourite of my friend & the host Karen seems quite wonderful. 

 

I really appreciate all your suggestions gecko!!

 

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See video

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I love Republic of Doyle.

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We attended a really unique and entertaining dinner theatre in Twilingate - Newfoundland music and skits, and good food.

  Loved the area - we just drove around all the little roads, through little settlements along the coast - talked to the folks. 

Since we were there on a Sunday we went to the UCC.  Arrived early and sat in our car listening to the church bells ringing out.  Found it interesting that several fifth-wheels and trailers were parked on the church parking lot - we were told that mostly they were people from the town who now lived elsewhere but came home for their holidays.

 

 

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Ah - I think I will also be in Twillingate on a Sunday seeler - so I will visit that little church too.  My other Sundays will be in Rocky Harbour, and St. Bride's - so I will have to check & see what churches are in those areas too.  I like to visit other churches when I'm travelling - it's such a great way to experience yet another aspect of local life. 

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Fogot to mention the Viking Feast in St. Anthony.  This is really a lot of fun.  Not certain how early in the season it begins.  Usually dependent on bus tours.  You can see the building with the sod roof when you go to Fishing Point.

http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/planyourtrip/Detail/213007

 

Also, I hope you get to be part of a kitchen party during your travels.  Some of best places to experience this may be Cow Head, Twillingate or Trinity.  Check at travel info centres or with the locals.  Delightful evening.

At some point in time you must be "screeched-in".   smiley

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Definitely a kitchen party or two on our list!  The Viking Feast sounds interesting too - will have to check dates & reviews.   Screeched in - is it REALLY a must do??

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carolla wrote:

Definitely a kitchen party or two on our list!  The Viking Feast sounds interesting too - will have to check dates & reviews.   Screeched in - is it REALLY a must do??

 

No, maybe not a "must-do", but rather fun.  Best place to do that is probably in St. John's during an evening out on George Street, or on one of the boat tours.  Could be something to do if you return to explore Eastern NL another year.

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Was just reading about the Silent Witness Memorial - and the horrific plane crash which it honours.  It's weird - I have absolutely NO recollection of hearing about this event - which puzzles me deeply.   Such shocking things usually stay in the memory.   

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These are some of the Orcas we have been studying and cataloguing in NL and Labrador waters for the past 10 years.  I'm hoping to get out on the zodiac with these folks in the summer.

 

See video

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That's amazing!  I am especially fascinated by the underwater footage they captured.  It's interesting to me how they come so close, but seem to not bump or charge the vessel - do you know if such a thing has ever happened?  Perhaps they are as curious as we are.  

 

I hope for your sake gecko that you get out on the water again this summer!

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Hi Corolla:

I intended to add a section on Trinity, but got sidetracked.  Several friends have recently indicated they are planning trips to NL this summer, and asked me to share my suggestions with them as well.   So here goes.

 

As you travel the Trans Canada heading east you will pass through Terra Nova National Park.  Worth the short drive off the highway to the Visitor's Centre.   Moose sightings are often common in the Park, so always drive with caution.

 

If you happen to be near Charlottetown and it is lunch time, there is a great restaurant, Clode Sound Motel and Restaurant.  Food is homemade and menu offers local dishes.

 

The village of Trinity is a special experience with its old world charm, very narrow streets, live theatre, beautiful vistas, historic buildings, lighthouse, etc.

You will find many things to do here, and good that you are staying for several nights.

 

If you enjoy live theatre, http://www.risingtidetheatre.com/

The schedule for 2014 isn't posted yet but you an check when you arrive.

 

Walking tours are the best way to experience the community, see the old church, harbour and enjoy the town.

There is a mussel farm in the bay as you drive in, noticed by the white and blue buoys.  I've never been able to find out if tours are available.

 

Eating places aren't numerous.  The Dock Restaurant is popular, there is a craft store on the upper level and a relatively new place, The Mercantile, is great for coffee, homemade soup and sandwiches.

 

A couple of boat tours offer Whale Watching.  I highly recommend Sea of Whales.  I know the operator, Chris Prince, and he provides great tours.  Can choose sperm whales or humpbacks, but either trip affords wonderful view of the coastline.

 

One of the best and most scenic hikes is the Skerwink Trail from Trinity East.  I did a section of the trail last year and it is truly beautiful.  Some parts are very challenging with lots of steps up and down, but certainly worth it.  The little town of Trinity East is very pretty to explore as well.

 

There is a reconstruction of the Random Passage site at New Bonaventure.  Don't know if you watched the TV series....may be of interest or maybe not.

 

I highly recommend visiting the Puffin Colony near Elliston.  Elliston, by the way, is the "Root Cellar Capital" of the world.  Ask directions in Elliston and people will direct you to the puffin viewing area.  It is an interesting walk over high cliffs to see puffins land on the edge of the rocks and in the grass.  I visited twice last summer and found the best time seems to be in the early afternoon.  I took over 150 photos of puffins doing assorted things.  You can lie in the grass and be 6 feet from the birds.  Be careful of the grass though, because there are sheep droppings about.  Often frequented by photographers with their huge lenses.  From that vantage point you may see humpback whales frollicking further out on a clear day.

 

Bonavista has many interesting things to see and do.  The Ryan Premises contains displays of the history of the fishery in NL as well as many artifacts.  Definately worth a visit.

 

There is a reconstruction of John Cabot's ship, The Matthew, and tours are available.

 

There is a huge white United Church in downtown Bonavista.  Never tried to see if it was open for a tour, but would like to some time.

 

The Lighthouse at the Cape is a very scenic area, but not so much in fog so try for a clear day.  The rocks are spectacular, and there are some interesting trails from the parking lot.

 

The Dungeon is a unique rock formation and accessible from the park.

http://www.trailpeak.com/trail-Dungeon-Provincial-Park-near-Bonavista-NF...

 

There are many small outport communities in the area if you have some time, for example, Keels, Tickle Cove.

 

That's about it.  Hoping you really enjoy your travels.

 

 

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Ahhh ... thanks gecko!  You've taken me back to my imagination ever so pleasantly .... just over two months til we depart - so I hope a LOT of improvement occurs in the weather between now & then!! (did you see the photo of the house in port au choix that was almost completely buried in snow?)  We will be in Trinity on my birthday :-)  I looked at maybe having a special dinner at The Twine Loft - have you ever eaten there?  

 

I'm hoping rising tide theatre might be starting up - but we may just be a week or two ahead of their openings ... I'll have to keep checking.

 

Really looking forward to the puffins - such interesting little creatures!  My husband is an avid photographer - so we might take a small tarp & hunker down in the grass :-) hoping not to be nibbled by wandering sheep!   The very idea of it is making me giggle - such a concept is so different from our city life!!  

 

gecko - I think you will have to publish your own little guide to NFLD!!  It would be a treasure!

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Question - someone  told me early June is a BAD time for mosquitos - true? 

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great tips...we went on a puffin tour, but, it was on a boat, that would have been even more amazing to walk up.

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Hi Corolla:

I've been on the west side in late June and didn't notice mosquitoes as much as blackflies, especially in Labrador.

Can't say I've experienced mosquitoes - usually too cold and breezy for them.  If you are lucky may be some light winds to blow them out to sea.

 

I forgot about The Twine Loft but have never eaten there.  Supposed to be a nice place, and would be great for a birthday celebration.

 

There is a nice coffee shop on the way to Port Rexton, just past the turn to Trinity East called Two Whales.  On the north side of the road.  The ladies prepare gluten-free sandwiches and desserts.   Food is very good, maybe a tad expensive, but gluten-free is always more.  My vegetarian sandwich included sliced avocado and was delicious.

 

I saw the photos and story of the house in Port aux Choix.  Last I read there was real danger of the roof collapsing.  Very sad.

 

Your husband will have so many excellent and memorable photo opportunites...take extra memory cards...smiley

 

Enjoy.....and hope the weather warms up both here and there.

 

 

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Less than 10 days and we'll be off on our adventure!  Our first stop will be Rocky Harbour - where we will no doubt commune with the beached blue whale!  That will most certainly be a once in a lifetime experience surprise and memorable in more ways than I can imagine!! 

 

Thanks for all the tips everyone has provided - our itinerary is looking wonderful and we can't wait to get going.  Lots of icebergs seems to be making appearances all along the coast too.   Did anybody watch the doc "Chasing Ice"?  It's on netflix I think - absolutely amazing. 

 

 Appreciate the Two Whales tip re the gluten free sandwiches gecko - always great to know of places that serve gf!   And yes, extra memory cards have been purchased!   Our son gave me a binocular harness for my birthday - so that will be useful too - I just have to figure out how to put it on!   We've been out walking every morning for an hour (the gettin up early is killing me tho!) - to get our hiking legs in better shape for the expedition!  LOL.  And today I brought the suitcase & duffle in from the garage ... the time approaches!!

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Hi Corolla.

Time has a way of passing by quickly doesn't it. 

Hold your nose when near the decaying blue whale.  The stench from dead whales is pretty overpowering.  Maybe the worst has passed but weather is getting warmer.

 

Some friends have been posting fabulous photos of icebergs from the Trinity, Twillingate and Bonavista areas.  That bodes well for you.  Seem to be a few around St. Anthony.

 

As I mentioned above, take insect repellant for black flies.  It may be too early yet, but good to be prepared.

 

Happy travels and best of luck with your adventures.  Maybe we will connect again on the new WC2.

 

Since writing the articles for you, I have modified them for 3 other sets of friends who plan to be in NL this summer.  Might be some fun visits if we cross paths.

 

 

 

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Carolla

This is all so exciting, you're making me jealous. I've never been. Its going to be fantabulous.....hang onto your hat....!

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Check out the COOL Iceberg pics on this page.

https://www.facebook.com/TrinityEcoTours

 

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